F1 ROC 2 Race of Champions Platform Super Nintendo Cheats, Tips & Codes|
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F1 ROC 2 - Race of Champions - Platform: Super Nintendo
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RACE OF CHAMPIONS
F1 ROC 2: Race of Champions: VinnyVideo's Official FAQ's/Walkthrough
Table of Contents
[VERS] Version History
[MODE] Modes of Play
[CCLA] C-Class Walkthrough
 Formula 3000 Walkthrough
[FOR1] Formula One Walkthrough
[CODE] Codes and Cheats
[RECD] Record Times
[FAQS] Frequently Asked Questions
[F192] Comparing with Reality
[COPY] Copyright/Contact Information
Navigation tip: Use the Find feature (Ctrl-F) to find what you're looking for.
For example, search for [CCLA] to jump to the C-Class walkthrough.
Woo-hoo! This is my second video game guide that I've finished. I
wrapped up my FAQ's/walkthrough for the first F1 ROC game just a few
weeks ago. I selected F1 ROC 2: Race of Champions as the subject of my
next guide because it too is devoid of walkthroughs and because it's
a pretty good auto racing game (at least for 1993). Keep your eyes
pealed for more VinnyVideo guides in the weeks to come, including
SimCity 3000, The Legend of Zelda: Twilight Princess, The Legend of
Zelda: Ocarina of Time (Master Quest), and Donkey Kong 64.
Version History [VERS]
0.3 Got started. Completed most of Class C and some of F3000 betwee eating
leftover turkey and watching football. (11/23/07)
0.4 Completed F3000 and started F1. (11/24/07)
0.5 Straightened out my jumbled track guides for Class C and F3000
and did some other stuff. (11/26/07)
0.55 Completed Monaco track guide. (11/27/07)
0.7 Completed Canada, France, Britain, Germany, Hungary, Belgium,
Italy, Portugal, Japan, Australia, South Africa, Mexico, and Brazil. A
lot of stuff! (11/28/07).
0.8 Completed Spain and San Marino track guides. Added record times
and made lots of adjustments. (11/29/07)
0.9 Added some more FAQs and made my guide much more organized.
0.92 Added Modes of Play. (12/3/07)
0.95 Added Cheats Codes. (12/4/07)
0.97 Corrected two spelling mistakes and finished Comparing with
Reality section. (12/5/07)
0.99 Tweaked R&D development prices and updated record times.
1.0 Double-checked everything. (12/7/07)
Submitted guide to GameFAQs.com and Neoseeker.com. (12/10/07)
Modes of Play [MODE]
At the title screen, Records displays record lap times for Class C,
F3000, F1, and Practice Mode. Practice lets you run practice laps using
either the Class C, F3000, or F1 car at your choice of eight different
tracks. If you don't do anything, a demo will run.
Grand Prix runs a season. If this is the first time you've played,
begin a new save slot and enter your name. Otherwise, select a save
slot to resume your season. From here, select "Save Game" to save your
progress. "Course" lets you select the track you want to race on next
(if Class C or F3000) or shows information about the next track in the
season (in F1). Race begins a race after you select the number of laps
in qualifying and the race itself. R&D takes you to another screen.
Setting is where you go to select the parts on your car, while Lab is
where you can check the progress on equipment development and/or
increase funding for development of specific parts.
C-Class Walkthrough [CCLA]
I should explain a few things before we get started. For guide
purposes, I'm assuming you've bought the game secondhand and therefore
don't have a manual. F1 ROC 2 is very different from the first F1 ROC
game and most racing games of its time. You start off racing in "Class
C" and win races to move up to Formula 3000 and eventually to Formula
One. To make it easier to win races, you'll have to upgrade your car.
However, instead of buying parts as in F1 ROC 1, you have to pay your
engineers to research and design upgraded parts. This takes money and
time. Obviously, F1 ROC 2 is a deeper and more complex motor racing
game than most other Super NES titles.
When you start a new save file, you're in Class C, whose cars look like
sports cars and whose tracks sometimes resemble those of NASCAR. Your
goal is to win a race at all eight of the tracks. This may sound
difficult, but fortunately you can try as many times as you want. Once
you can win fairly consistently at a track, you should move on to the
next one. You should run the Moon City track several times when you
begin a new save file to accumulate money and upgrade parts before
moving onto future tracks, which are more challenging. While the later
tracks have bigger prizes for high finishes, you also have to pay an
entry fee to participate. If you can't pay the entry fee, you'll have
to go back to Moon City or a less expensive track to try and earn more
prize money. For this reason, keep a $5000-$10000 cushion at the R&D
screen once you've won a few times at Moon City. Try not to spend every
penny you have.
The Joys of R&D (Research and Development)
At this point in time, all your parts are at Level 1; basically,
they're not very good. To make your car better, select "R&D" and then
"Lab." A nerdy-looking engineer will appear on the screen. Then he'll
ask you whether you want him to develop a new part. If you do (and you
probably do), pay him the amount of money found on the chart below. If
you don't pay him that amount of money, when you check the Lab screen
in another race or two, he'll demand more money and you won't have the
new part developed. If you do give him enough money, you'll have a new
part ready in about two races. Go to the Setting screen, scroll to the
new part, and press B. You'll also probably want him to develop another
upgrade to the part (for the same fee as before). I recommend that you
stagger part development; before your first race, pay the engineer for
the rear wing and engine upgrades. After the first race, pay for the
front wing and tires. This way, you won't run out of money. It's also
possible to pay in installments without getting a "Not enough money"
message; if a part costs $4000, pay $2000 at first. Then after the next
race, invest $2000, even if he says "It's almost completed" or that the
development of the part is going well. Engine upgrades are usually the
most useful, although you definitely need to upgrade other parts, too.
Keep in mind that odd-numbered engine upgrades increase top speed while
even-numbered engines have better acceleration. There are a few tracks
where you might want to use an older engine (if a track has a lot of
chicanes, a Level 4 engine may work better than an L5). That's true on
all classes in this game (even F1). Also, try not to allow your front
wing to be more than a couple of levels higher than your rear wing (or
the other way around), or your car will handle strangely (although this
won't happen if you follow my guide). Here's the second most useful
piece of information in this entire guide (the chart that shows how
much each part costs):
Front wing: 4000
Rear wing: 4000
Simple. With good driving, you can win with Level 1 parts. Take the
inside line on the upper and lower parts of the track, and try to stay
as straight as possible toward the middle.
Upgrade your parts to Level 2 or 3 before challenging Dawn Chorus. This
is the next track and the first one with an entry fee (remember that
you can select the track on the "Course" menu). After the first two
turns, there's a tough chicane. Don't touch the gravel, or you'll lose
about 25 MPH. After a couple of little turns, you come to a long
straight and a little hairpin. Other than the chicane, this track is
Once you have Level 3 parts (maybe an L4 engine), move on to Green
Hill. This course is longer, but there aren't any real difficulties.
It's a tough place to qualify in a good position. The track starts with
a number of little twists. Take the inside line and don't over-correct.
After the straight are a few more little twists, and then the opening
You want all your equipment to be in the L4-L5 range here. This is a
good course for the odd-numbered "speed-oriented" engine, as there are
some long straightaways. This is the longest track we've seen so far.
The "inside" part of the track has some twists and curves, along with a
tricky chicane. Basically, this course is pretty easy.
Desert Snake is the hardest course yet, so try to upgrade everything to
Level 5 - especially the engine. The goal here is to keep going fast -
straight and on the road - through the many chicanes. Again, don't
touch the gravel. Keep in mind that the each chicane is subtly
Not just a bad series of TV shows and movies, a Toyota SUV, or the
former name for the American League baseball club in New York. You need
L5 parts, and possibly an L6 engine. Very similar to Desert Snake, but
a bit tougher and more exciting.
Level 6 equipment is strongly recommended. Red Moab combines the
gentle, quick curves of Dark Forest with the chicanes of Desert Snake.
The main hazard here is the very sharp hairpin near the halfway point.
You need Level 6 or Level 7 parts for this track. Concisely: Sweeping
U-turn, quick chicane, several gentle curves, broad chicane, sweeping
turn, challenging sharp chicane, another tough chicane, opening straight.
Formula 3000 Walkthrough 
You're stuck in a Venturi car. Again, your objective is to win all the
races, and you can still try as many times as you want. The first race
is free, while other events require entry fees. However, it now costs
even more for your technicians to fully develop a new part, although it
still takes only two races. Here are the revised prices:
Rear wing: 6000
Front wing: 6000
Notice the addition of Brakes (which are probably the least helpful
upgrade). Once you win every race, you'll move on to the Formula One
series. But first you'll have to select the car you want to drive -
either Benetton, Footwork, or Venturi. I think all of the cars are the
same (except for appearance), so select the one you like the best. It
should also be noted that real Formula One teams only run two cars.
At Black Stone, it's tough (but possible) to win with L1 equipment. In
short: Gentle curve, two quick rights, gentle left, gentle right,
chicane. Two small curves, chicane, slightly sharper left, right.
Medium right, short straight, medium right, gentle left, quick right,
one more chicane, and that's that's.
Metal Rabbit demands L2 equipment. After the opening straight, average
right, normal right, sharp left, long right, short straight. Easy left,
gentle curve, sliding left, sweeping left, sharp chicane, long right.
Tricky chicane, quick left, sweeping right, sharp left, normal right,
You'll need to have Level 3 equipment to compete here. The difficulty
level is a bit higher. Easy left, tough right hairpin. Start outside
and try "sliding" if you feel daring. Gentle left, sweeping right.
Several chicanes, followed by a tough hairpin. One more chicane,
sweeping left, tough chicane, sweeping right, the end.
Easier than Mad Point. Really, this course is so simple I can't offer
much advice except to stay away from the gravel, take the inside line,
and go inside on sweeping curves. You need Level 3 or maybe 4 parts to
achieve an easy victory.
The last course was pretty easy; this isn't. Level 4 parts are
recommended. Sweeping right, insane chicane/hairpin. Easy right, short
straight, sweeping right, tough chicane series. It's up to you when
deciding how much corner to cut. Quick left, decent straight. Two quick
lefts, tough chicane. You might attempt the slide; a really good driver
won't need to slow down. Chicane, sweeping right. Left, immediately
followed by a chicane. Two quick rights and one more chicane. That's
all of this little bear.
Level 5 equipment (especially the engine) is advised for this
challenging course. Yes, it is rather tacky to name racetracks after
the company that made the game (especially if you affix the word
Great). It's a pity, but parts of this track can't be accessed. The
track, when viewed horizontally, is supposed to resemble a Seta logo.
Sweeping right, tough hairpin. Short right. Tough triple chicane,
followed by a second chicane. An easy right comes between two medium
straightaways. Quick left. Easy right. Pretty long straight. Tightly
sweeping right. Challenging hairpin, gentle right. Gentle right, and
You need L6 parts, and possibly an L7 engine. A very challenging track.
Normal left. Quick sharp right. Tough hairpin, but you don't have to
slow if you drive perfectly. Quick left. Gentle left, followed
immediately by THREE chicanes and an easy left. Quick left and a
chicane. After a long straight stretch, there are four chicanes in a
row. These are tough, so you'll probably end up (accidentally or maybe
intentionally) cutting a bit. After another straight is a tough
hairpin. Quick right, sweeping right, chicane, quick left. After an
easy left, you're back at the opening straight.
L6-L7 equipment works best here. The opening straight leads to a
chicane, followed by a sweeping right, hairpin, and a long sweeping
right. Then comes a long straightaway broken up by four chicanes. The
next sector is tough: hairpin, chicane, chicane. After a very gentle
left, a short straight, a quick left, there are two chicanes. The final
right is an oddly-shaped sweeper which can confuse the inexperienced
Formula One Walkthrough [FOR1]
Once you've won all the races in Formula 3000, you'll make it to the
big boys of Formula One. The competition here is tighter, and - you
guessed it - things cost more and usually take three races to develop.
Rear wing: 7800
Front wing: 6000
Worse yet, development in F1 sometimes gets delayed (requires more
time), goes over budget (makes you pay extra money to get the part), or
(very rarely) gets stolen by another team (forces you to start
development of that part all over again). There's no way you can
prevent any of that from happening. Suspension is the only addition
from F3000. You can't select tracks from the Course screen any more,
but you can run as many seasons as you want to (just like in the first
F1 ROC game). Also, no races require entry fees. You earn points
depending on how well you place in these races. If you have more points
than anyone else at the end of the season, you'll be able to carve your
name on the championship trophy (maybe not literally). Before we get to
the track guides, here's an incredibly useful tip:
The Perils of Pit Stops
In the original F1 ROC game, pit stops were only used to repair damage
(saving money); basically, they were useless. In F1 ROC 2, damage isn't
a problem, but pit stops are extremely useful. When you make a pit
stop, your crew will change all four of your tires. Some races are
almost impossible to win if you don't pit. Here's what might be the
best tip in this entire guide: Normally, a pit stop takes nine seconds
to perform. However, it's better to tap B as quickly as possible during
the stop; this should reduce the time to about four seconds. But if you
have a controller that has a turbo button, you might be able to perform
the stop in as little as 0.43 seconds! It should also be noted that the
second set of tires tends to wear slightly faster than the first set,
so delay your stop until it's really necessary. I include a suggested
pit stop schedule in each track guide. However, keep in mind that you
might want to stop more often if you have a turbo controller. In
addition, boosting your car's grip with wing and tire upgrades will
significantly increase the life of your tires, reducing the need to make pit
Once you finish your first season, you can change teams if you want,
and this time you'll be able to choose between the McLaren, Williams,
Ferrari, Benetton, Footwork, and Venturi teams. All of them run the
same, so I strongly advise that you select the same team you picked
after the Formula 3000 season. If you go with a different car, you'll
lose any of the parts you've upgraded during your previous season, so
you'll have to start the R&D process all over again. If you win two
championships, a special ending is shown. Well, it's the credits, and
it's not TOO special, but it should still make you feel kind of happy.
Reminder: These track guides aren't necessarily interchangeable with
other Formula One racing games (or real life, for that matter).
South Africa (Kyalami)
You can win even with L1 parts, but it's not easy. However, the track
itself isn't very difficult to the experienced driver. There are a
variety of pit strategies you can consider here - probably six laps
with no pit stops or eight laps with one stop. Gentle left, sharper
left, medium straight, normal right. Quick left, easy left, two gentle
rights. Medium straight, relatively mild hairpin, then another medium
straightaway. Gentle left, sharp right, gentle right, sharp left, and
Mexico (Hermanos Rodriguez)
This is a pretty tough track. It's very hard to win here without good
equipment. It's best to set the race length to eight laps and make one
pit stop. We start with a chicane and a right turn. Medium straight,
gentle left, right, sharp right, chicane. Things get a bit easier now.
Quick left, sharp right, gentle left, gentle right, gentle left. After
a medium straight comes a sweeping right (these appear at the end of a
lot of tracks) and then you're back at the opening straight.
Brazil (Sao Paulo)
This track isn't too tough, and it's easier than it was in F1 ROC 1. I
prefer running seven laps and making one trip to the pits, although
five laps with zero stops also works well. Quick left, two gentle
lefts, long straight, quick left, normal left, medium straight, gentle
right, long right sweeper with increasing sharpness, quick left. The
hairpin up ahead is pretty sharp, so be careful. A long left is
followed by a quick left. A series of gentle lefts lead you back to the
This track looks a lot like Portugal, but this is slightly easier. Try
for one stop on six laps. Quick right, gentle left, long series of
rights (getting gradually sharper). Mild hairpin, soon followed by a
sharper hairpin. Try to slide through without losing much speed. Medium
straight with a gentle curve, quick left, easy right. Quick right,
medium straightaway, right/left (basically a chicane, but easier),
series of three lefts, long sharp right, quick right, medium
straightaway, and then you're back on the long opening straight.
San Marino (Imola)
It should be noted that this track is actually located in Italy. As the
Course screen says, this is a technical circuit, although the
speed-oriented engine is also acceptable here. Set the race length to
seven or eight and plan on making one pit stop at this challenging
course. Easy left, medium straight, gentle right, tough hairpin. Try
using the strategy recommended for the hairpin in Portugal, as this is
very similar to that one. Gentle right, sharp left, gentle left, gentle
right/left, unusual sharp hairpin. Begin outside, though doing so isn't
easy. Gentle right, gentle left, chicane, medium straightaway, gentle
right, sharp left sweeper, short straight, chicane, and you're back to the
Monaco (Monte Carlo)
This track is extremely tough. Worse yet, your tires usually start
wearing out after about two laps. After three or four laps, it's like
you're driving on ice. Set the laps to five or six and plan on changing
tires at the end of your third lap. Some players might even race six
laps and stop twice. Skillful driving is necessary in order to take the
checkered flag in the lead. Use an acceleration-oriented engine.
Basically, sharp right, several gentle curves. Try to take the
straightest line. At the end of that stretch is a sharper left. Then
comes a quick sharp right. Then there's an even sharper right, which
begins a very tough sequence. There are back-to-back hairpins, although
the second one is easier than the first. This is the best place to pass
if you're willing to drive aggressively. The next right is a simple
sweeper, followed by a gentle right. One of the game's hardest chicanes
is ahead; it's much tighter than most and is almost hairpin-like with
its Z shape. After a medium straightaway is a quick left. Now begins
the hardest stretch in the game. There are back-to-back chicanes; one
goes left and one goes right. It's not over yet. After a short
straight, there's a tricky chicane/hairpin (you may find it best to cut
some of the corner), followed by a very quick sharp right. This last
turn can easily cause problems if you go to sleep after that difficult
stretch. That's all of this challenging course.
No, there aren't those mountains in real life. To maximize your chances
of victory, choose an eight-lap race and change tires halfway through.
Quick left, sweeping right, gentle quick left, tough hairpin. It's
pretty wide at the edges, though. Gentle right, right, easy left. The
next section is quite narrow. Two easy rights are followed by a gentle
left and a sharper left. Pay attention. A long easy right begins a
straightaway broken up by a gentle right. Then there's a tough
right/left - almost a chicane. A very gentle left leads up to a sharp
hairpin. After a gentle right is the hardest part of the course, with
back-to-back chicanes (a little like the Bus Stop in Belgium). Try to
take the straightest route through. The first one is harder than the
second. That's all of Montreal.
France (Magny Cours)
A good course for speed demons. It's a good place to have an
odd-numbered engine, if applicable. It's also very long. I recommend
that you set the race length to five or six laps and that you change
tires at the end of your third lap. Sweeping left, followed by a long
sweeping right. After that is a VERY long straightaway, although there
are a couple of gentle curves in its midst. Watch out for the sharp
hairpin. Next is another straightaway. This one has a baby chicane that
shouldn't require you to slow down. After a tight sweeping left, you'll
be on another straight. This has a gentle curve and a chicane to keep
you busy. At the end is a relatively gentle hairpin (I can hardly call
it a hairpin). The next straightaway is especially straight, but the
track's hardest point - a sharp chicane followed by a sharp right -
gives many players trouble. After one more straightaway, you've reached
the finish line.
Great Britain (Silverstone)
Another fast track. 6 (maybe 8) laps is a good length, so make a pit
stop midway through. Quick right, medium straightaway. Gentle left,
gentle right, sharp left, sharp right. A straightaway begins after a
gentle curve. The sweeping right ahead zips back to the left at the
end. Next is a chicane followed by a sweeping right. There's a long
straight ahead, with a gentle left in the middle. A quick right begins
the twisty sector. Sweeping left, quick left, and quick rights. The
next straight is narrow for a short while. After a short right, you've
finished a lap.
Contrary to what the Course screen says, this is definitely a
high-speed track. A speed-oriented (odd-numbered) engine is preferred.
Also, there aren't mountains here in real life (just lots of trees).
Six laps with a one-stop strategy is most likely to ensure success. The
sweeping opening turn leads to a long straightaway broken up by a
three-way chicane-like zig-zag that isn't too sharp or tough. A quick
right may lure you to sleep for the challenging chicane. After two
gentle rights, you repeat the first straightaway, with the same zig-zag
as before, although this time it's left-right-left. A quick right takes
you to a hairpin. A couple of gentle curves lead to the final turns - a
sharp right immediately followed by a gentler right.
I don't have to much to say about this not-too-tough track. My one tip:
Set the laps to six and don't stop for tires. Sweeping right. Long
sweeping left, gentle right, long straight, with a pair of gentle
turns. Sharp right. Quick chicane, quick left. Easy right. A gentle
left, immediately followed by a right. Gentle right. Sweeping left. One
more sweeping right and you're done.
This is the most challenging track we've had in a while, and I think
one of the most fun. Six laps and one pit stop are advised. Just
remember that exiting the pits is quite tricky. You start with a very
tight hairpin. Braking action may be necessary. Soon afterwards is a
quick chicane not seen on the course map. Then begins a very long
straightaway. At the end is a quick right followed with a quick left.
Easy right, hairpin, gentle right, quick left, long sweeping left. A
long right abruptly cuts to the left. Then comes a sweeping right and a
few little twists. Last but not least is the Bus Stop chicane (which
piteously was remodeled and basically removed in 2007).
A good track for speedsters and the odd-numbered engine. Go for eight
(maybe nine or ten) laps and a one-stop strategy. Early on there are
some zig-zags. Take the straightest line through (you don't need to
steer much) and prepare for a gentle right at the end. A long
straightaway concludes with a quirky chicane. Sweeping right. Quick
right, short left, short straight. A zig-zag/chicane and quick left.
Medium straight. Long right, quick right. That's it.
A mid-speed course with long straights and a handful of sharp turns. It
looks a little like Spain, but the turns are sharper. Again do a
six-lap race with one pit stop. Do you like the exotic-looking sunset
background? Medium right, medium straight, medium right, short
straight, sweeping right, short straight, very tight hairpin. You'll
probably need to brake a little here to avoid slamming into the wall,
although you don't have to brake if you go from the inside to the road
area where the wall goes outward and makes the road a bit wider (It's
hard to explain in print). It's also easier when you have slightly worn
tires. A medium straight is broken up by a gentle right. The next
hairpin is much easier. Next up is an extremely long sweeping right.
It's best if your line is near the inside part of the turn. A quick
left is followed by a long sweeping right, and then you're back at the
No, the graphics for the overpass here don't look very 21st-century.
The Course screen says you can use a high-speed setup here. In reality,
this is not a high-speed course. Run six laps on a one-stop strategy (a
frequent pattern). It begins with a sweeping right. Then come three
pairs of zig-zags. Try to stay straight. Then comes a quick left,
gentle right, quick right, and a medium straightaway. The next hairpin
is very sharp and sometimes necessitates braking. Quick right, gentle
right, long sweeping left. A long straight ends with a quick left.
There's a Z-shaped chicane ahead that's quite tough. After a gentle
right you're back at the opening straight.
Of course, real Formula One events don't take place at night. This is a
pretty tough track. I suggest the familiar six laps/one pit stop plan.
A chicane leads off. Then comes the hardest part of the track: Quick
right, quick left, quick right, short straight, chicane, quick right.
All of them are pretty sharp. Now we have the speed sector. There's a
very long straight, a gentle right, and another long straight. The
hairpin ahead isn't quite as hard as it looks. Then there's a quick
left, gentle curve, and a tougher hairpin. That's all for this one.
Codes and Cheats [CODE]
This is the moment we've all been waiting for! F1 ROC 2 has some pretty
neat cheat codes. In order for them to work, you have to enter them
using Controller Two at the copyright notice screen before the mode
selection screen appears. The mini-games are for two players.
Block mini-game: X, X, X, X, Y, Y
Pong/Space Invaders mini-game: Y, Y, Y, Y, X, X
Sound test: L, R, L, R, L, R, L, R, L, R, R. Use Controller One to
select the music.
Track selection: A, A, A, A, B, B, B, B, B, B, B, B, B, B, B, B, B, B.
Time attack mode: Up, X, Right, Y, Down, B, Left, A, A.
Here's a trick that doesn't require you to mash buttons on your other
controller while you're on the copyright screen: Once you have the
Level 8 engine (regardless of your class), invest $100,000 towards
engine development to get the Super-Special-Grade Engine for the next
race. Hold A and B to go extremely fast (up to about 700 MPH). It's a
pity, but the Super Engine can only be used once, whether that one use
is in a race or in Practice Mode.
Record Times [RECD]
Moon City: 20.36
Green Hill: 25.45
Desert Snake: 27.47
Red Moab: 27.85
Black Stone: 35.06
Mad Point: 31.39
Wild Bear: 43.28
Moon City: 20.88
Dawn Chorus: 21.35
Green Hill: 26.10
Dark Forest: 36.54
Desert Snake: 28.22
Red Moab: 28.33
White Night: 34.54
Black Stone: 35.09
Metal Rabbit: 36.56
Mad Point: 31.12
Laser Blaster: 38.22
Wild Bear: 44.00
Great Seta: 47.00
Sunset Horizon: 43.55
South Africa: 37.12
San Marino: 34.99
Great Britain: 45.71
All of these record lap times were achieved using Level 8 equipment. I
didn't use the Super-Special-Grade Engine for any of these.
Frequently Asked Questions [FAQS]
Q: What are the controls?
A: F1 ROC 2's controls are extremely simple:
Control pad: Steer left or right
B button: Gas pedal
Y button: Brake
Usually letting off the gas slows you down enough for turns, so you
don't need to brake very often. And no, there's nothing resembling a
manual transmission, and you can't use nitro fuel like in the first F1
Q: Why shouldn't I go off the road?
A: Because you lose speed when you hit the wall, and you can go
bouncing like a pinball. Additionally, going into the gravel tends to
accelerate tire wear. Keeping your car on the road becomes much tougher
if your tires are worn (see if the icon near the top is flashing).
Q: Why is there a blue flag behind my car?
A: In real life, marshals sometimes use blue flags to tell slower
lapped drivers to move over for the leaders. In F1 ROC 2, the blue flag
means a car (whether lapped or not) is right on your tail and may try
Q: What's the fastest way to get through hairpins?
A: Upgrading your car is one way to help. On a left hairpin (reverse
instructions for right), drift from the inside to the outside right
before it begins. Hold B and left through most of the turn, and release
B about halfway through. When the turn is finished, hold B to
accelerate. If your tires are worn, you might spin a little, but that's
OK. If done properly, you'll lose only about 15 MPH through most
hairpins. I sometimes call this the sliding technique.
Q: My car doesn't accelerate very quickly. How can I improve my
A: First, you can get your engineers to research new engines. Second,
if you're currently using an engine at level 3, 5, or 7, you can revert
to the second-highest engine level (2, 4, or 6) if you're willing to
sacrifice some maximum speed for better acceleration. Third (and most
effective) works only in race modes. While getting started, try to make
an opposing car hit you from behind. If done right (and you're a little
lucky), you should go shooting forward to your maximum speed or close
to it. This trick really isn't too tough, since computer-driven cars
usually accelerate more quickly than you can. Watch for the blue flag
to tell exactly where the car is in relation to you.
Q: Why should I save my game frequently?
A: For one thing, so you can start from where you left off whenever you
turn your Super NES off. Also, if you save regularly, you can reset
your game if you don't like how things are going in a race and then
start the race over again. I didn't have to do this any during my 160-point
Q: If I'm in the Formula One class, how can I drive on the Formula 3000
A: Sorry, but you can't. Once you move up a class, you can't return to
the previous class, and that includes being able to drive on the old
tracks. The same goes if you're in F3000 and want to visit the C-Class
courses. However, you can select Practice Mode from the title screen,
which has the odd-numbered C-Class and F3000 courses, or you can start
a new file.
Q: How long will it take me to get to the Formula One class?
A: A good driver will need about two hours to finish Class C, and maybe
three to finish Formula 3000. A less experienced driver will take
slightly longer. If you don't know the most efficient way to upgrade
car parts (found in the respective walkthroughs), it could take quite a
Q: Do I get more points for winning a 60-lap race than a 6-lap race?
A: No. You get the same amount of prize money regardless of the number
of laps in the race.
Q: I just lost half of my money! What's happened?
A: You lose half of your cash when you move from Class C to F3000 or
from F3000 to F1. I recommend that you still accumulate a lot of money
before winning the final race of F3000; F1 parts aren't cheap.
Q: What's the highest number of points you can earn in a season?
A: If you win every race, you'll have 160 points. I did that on my
second season of a save slot, and I didn't even have to reset after a
losing race. Having Level 8 parts, a turbo controller, and experience
(this was the third time I'd played through an F1 season) helps a lot.
Q: If I tie for first place, do I still get first-place money?
A: Yes. The computer driver was listed as trailing me by 0.00 seconds
when that happened to me. This is a very rare occurrence, but it
happened to me once. It happened to me in Class C, so I think (but I'm
not sure) you would still get first-place points if this occurred in
Formula One. If you tied for another position, I think you always are
given the higher spot. I've also tied in qualifying before, and I've
always been awarded the better position.
Q: In the lab screen, I'm having trouble upgrading my Level 8 part and
I sometimes receive messages from the engineer like "It can fail."
A: Absolutely nothing. No parts (regardless of class) can ever be
upgraded above Level 8. You can still pay the engineer to try to
develop a new part, and you might even get the normal "things are going
well" or "I need more money" messages, but no matter how long you wait,
you'll never get a new part. "It can fail," which makes very little
sense from a grammatical perspective, is an engineer message that
appears randomly and only on Level 8 parts.
Q: How long will it take me to upgrade all my parts to Level 8?
A: With good driving, efficient R&D investment, and a little luck, you
can have all your parts upgraded to Level 8 near the end of your second
season. If you can do that, you'll be pretty hard to stop.
Q: How long did it take you to win a Formula One championship?
A: I got about 60 points during my first season, which was good enough
to finish third in the standings. I started a new save slot and got 125
points in season one, which won easily. On my second season on that
save slot, I got 160 points (I won every race). If you mean in terms of
time, I think it takes about three hours to run through a season.
Q: When I finish a class, why is my old car a mirror image of what it normally
A: This happens whether you finish either Class C or Formula 3000, and
I think it's a game glitch.
Q: Is there a two-player mode?
A: Only if you enter a secret code. See the Codes and Cheats section.
Q: What is F1 ROC 2: Race of Champions known as in Japan?
A: Exhaust Heat 2. The original F1 ROC: Race of Champions was Exhaust
Comparing with Reality [F192]
This section isn't quite as interesting as it was in my F1 ROC 1 guide, but
I'll include it anyway. The drivers and teams in F1 ROC 2: Race of Champions
are those of the real-life 1992 Formula One world championship.
Williams: Blue, yellow, and white (Nigel Mansell, Riccardo Patrese)
McLaren: White and red (Ayrton Senna, Gerhard Berger)
Benetton: Yellow and green (Michael Schumacher, Martin Brundle)
Ferrari: Red (Jean Alesi, Ivan Capelli)
Lotus: Green and yellow (Johnny Herbert, Mika Hakkinen)
Tyrrell: Blue, white, and red (Olivier Grouillard, Andrea de Cesaris)
Ligier: Blue and white (Erik Comas, Thierry Boutsen)
Footwork: Red and white (Michele Alboreto, Aguri Suzuki)
March: Light blue and dark blue (Paul Belmondo, Karl Wendlinger)
Dallara: Red (Pierluigi Martini, J.J. Lehto)
Jordan: Blue, red, and white (Stefano Modena, Mauricio Gugelmin [not
Venturi Larrousse: Blue, red, yellow, and green (Ukyo Katayama,
Minardi: Yellow, black, and white (Christian Fittipaldi, Gianni
Brabham: Purple, dark blue, and light blue (Eric van de Poele, Giovanna
Amati, Damon Hill)
Andrea Moda: Black (Roberto Moreno, Perry McCarthy)
Fondmetal: Red, blue, and white (Andrea Chiesa, Eric van de Poele,
Ayrton Senna is known as A. Seta in F1 ROC 2. The Brabham, Moda, and
Fondmetal drivers do not appear in this game. Also, only one Jordan
(Stefano Modena) appears. I assume that your car is supposed to be the
one that replaces Mauricio Gugelmin. Poor Mauricio.
Copyright/Contact Information [COPY]
(c) 2007 Vinny Hamilton. All rights reserved. I reserve only some of my
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